99 Hope Street
Providence, RI 02096
I am of the school that fancy food sometimes goes over the top. What is meant to invoke the simplicity of farm-to-table morphs into a Rand McNally of places and things that go on a plate and into your mouth. So I was a little wary when I studied the Persimmon menu in Providence, Rhode Island, where I was not expecting such a cosmopolitan experience. I ordered the local fish, because that is what I was brought up to do. The dish did not disappoint. Yes, it sat on two plump, braised leek "raviolo" (singular for ravioli: who knew?), and was swimming in something delicious called "shellfish butter sauce." No picnic tables or benches, no red-checkered tablecloths. But Persimmon, both in taste and buzz, worked on all levels. Great food in a sophisticated New England setting.