211 Waverly Pl, New York, NY 10014
There's a fine line between diner breakfast (a NY tradition) and fancy breakfast (think The Four Seasons and a twelve-dollar egg). Morandi, a wood-beamed Italian trattoria in the heart of Greenwich Village nails the difference. It's a kissing cousin to its famous neighbor to the east, Balthazar, and the fact they are both Keith McNally digs partially explains the popularity. But whereas Balthazar oozes cool and be-seen, Morandi plays more literate. Is that a famous novelist enjoying the amazing smoked fish breakfast pizza on a grill-striped flatbread laid flat on a rustic wooden board that you want to slip into your briefcase and hang from your Vermont kitchen, the aspirational one, after you close that deal? Yup, probably. Focus. The pancetta, funghi and spinaci versions of this sharable feast come with a perfectly done sunnyside up egg. But is the affumicata I crave, because Mr. McNally does not skimp on the layers of smoked salmon and whitefish. This is like a bagel and lox for Italian people. Say, is that the well-known New Yorker columnist typing on his iPad in the dark corner by the mirror. If it is, you can bet you won't be reading about it on Page 6, at least not as reported from this tasteful refined breakfast spot.
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